Bathed in light under the Victorian barrel-vaulted glass roof of the main hall at the Olympia conference centre, around 520 stands showcased the latest jewellery designs and designers. Among them were the stands of big name brands, gemstone suppliers, timepiece manufacturers, new graduates and smaller independent designers. Excitedly, I set about my mission...
First to jump out at me were the silver and gold spinning rings of Solo Line, and I spoke briefly to the designer Yossef Naor who had travelled from Romania for the event. She highlighted the many different styles and combinations of materials that were available in the range, including stones such as opal. I especially liked the hammered surface of the rings, which added texture and an almost rustic effect - as well, of course, as the wonderful spinning elements.
Similarly inspired by the natural world is Sonya Bennett, who, having established her first workshop in 1998, has become one of the UK's leading designers of contemporary precious jewellery. Drawing upon botanical and other natural forms, either observed first-hand or drawn from other sources such as 18th-century Japanese illustrations and Romantic and Pre-Raphaelite paintings, her collections include 'Ferns and Fritillaries', 'Harvest', 'Fox and Bluebells', 'Acorn' and the nautical-themed 'An Ode to Septimus'. My favourite is this Springtime pendant with golden bird - a year-round reminder of the freshness and beauty of this season of rebirth.
Kate Gilliland looks to the opposite end of nature's spectrum, and presents a dark yet beautiful study of death. She was instantly inspired by the claws of a female blackbird that she found lying on a path in Leicester during her time at university, and cleverly cast them in precious metal as a memorialisation of the bird's life. To find such beauty in death is a skill that few possess, as it requires us to think deeply about our own mortality, so I was especially impressed by Kate's ability not only to look beyond harsh realities, but to create such evocative pieces of jewellery that capture the fragility and miraculousness of life.
Alan Ardiff also seeks to convey this miraculousness, albeit through a very different design style - his work reminds us of the fun, frolics and motion of life. The pendants and earrings he creates feature a variety of motifs, including animals, flowers and hearts; some even contain little scenes, such as my favourite piece (I think!), the New Day pendant, pictured here. But his trademark is undoubtedly the kineticism he often adds to his designs - hares leap, butterflies dance and stars move across the heavens as the wearer turns her head from side to side.
I asked Alan where he draws his inspiration from. "Imagination is key," he replied. "Each person gets to enjoy my pieces from where they take them to in their imagination, and each New Day brings time for further dreaming - for me in the west of Ireland."
Some colour, next, as I arrived at the stand of Hazel Atkinson, whose work I have long admired - and whose earrings I often wear! Indeed, for bold, kaleidoscopic wearable art, one need look no further than Hazel's distinctive jewellery collections. She spent many years evolving and perfecting her technique of hand-printing and dying anodised aluminim to achieve the stunning results we see today, such as the new Royal Flush range in regal purple. "Fitting for a queen!" she enthused.
Continuing on the theme of anodisation, Prism Design works in titanium and has just unveiled its new Woodland Collection of necklaces and earrings, which feature feathers, butterflies, dragonflies and flowers in pulsatingly vivid hues of purple, blue, turquoise and yellow. These are colours that I rarely ever see in jewellery, and they really are spellbindingly magical.
Last, but by no means least, I of all people could not fail to be smitten by the moon designs I spotted at the show. Daisy London's sterling silver and gold vermeil Sun + Moon collection, inspired by the physical and emotional connections associated with these heavenly bodies, includes a rather mystical mother of pearl necklace, which is reversible (see photo at the start of this blog post).
Meanwhile, Muru's Talisman range features symbolic motifs to reflect one's beliefs and to provide empowerment. In the case of the moon designs, we're reminded of female power and intuition, and to always follow our hearts.
